Cardiff Bay has changed beyond recognition since the days when it was a working coal port. Today it is a leisure and cultural district with open water at its centre. This guide introduces the waterfront around Pier Head and Mermaid Quay, which is the usual starting point for a visit.
A brief history
In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the docks shipped coal around the world and made Cardiff one of the busiest ports in Britain. After the trade declined, the area was regenerated. The barrage, completed in 1999, turned the old tidal flats into a freshwater lake and gave the redevelopment a calm, attractive waterfront.
In the early twentieth century Cardiff was among the world’s leading coal-exporting ports, and many of the older buildings around the bay date from that period of wealth. Walking around the waterfront today, you can still read the layers: Victorian dock offices next to glass-fronted arts venues and new apartments.
Landmarks to look for
- The Pier Head Building. A red terracotta building from the late Victorian period, originally the headquarters of a dock company. Its clock tower and ornate details make it easy to spot.
- The Senedd. The home of the Welsh Parliament, a modern building of glass, slate and timber that opened in 2006.
- The Wales Millennium Centre. A major arts venue that opened in 2004 and is known for its large bronze-coloured roof and its inscription in Welsh and English.
- Mermaid Quay. A waterfront promenade with restaurants, cafes and shops.
- The Norwegian church. A white wooden building, associated with the author Roald Dahl, now used as an arts centre and cafe.
Things to do
- Stroll the boardwalks and look at the yachts in the marina.
- Eat outside in good weather, as many places have waterside tables.
- Visit a museum or science centre, such as the nearby interactive science attraction.
- Take a boat trip. Small passenger boats link the Pier Head with the Barrage and give an alternative view of the skyline. Read the description of a typical crossing.
- Walk the barrage to Penarth.
Food, drink and family time
The waterfront has a wide choice of places to eat, from quick snacks to sit-down meals, and many have outdoor seating with views of the bay. Families can find open spaces for children to run around, and a playground sits on the water’s edge, which suits a picnic. If you bring your own food, remember that some boat operators do not sell refreshments on board.
Getting there
The district is a short walk or bus ride from the city centre, and a rail branch line serves Cardiff Bay station. Allow time to wander, as the best views are often around corners.
Tips
- Weekdays are quieter than sunny weekends.
- Bring a layer, since the breeze off the water is cooler than in the city.
- Check that any boat service is operating before planning your day around it.
Return to the overview.